Let’s start by wishing Dogfish Head front man Sam Calagione a long and happy life. But if he were about to die, and if he had time for one last beer, what beer would it be? The answer can be found at a new beer blog dedicated, it seems, to asking folks this single question. A little morbid, perhaps, but nothing focuses ones desires like impending death, we suppose. (BNY’s last brew, by the way, would be a Brooklyn Lager that we’d sip while riding bareback on a tomahawk cruise missle, Dr. Strangelove style, on a one-way trip to “The Jersey Shore” beach house).
GQ wants you to try some beers. Fifty beers, to be precise. Here’s the link (warning, an annoying ad that pops up every fifth beer or so).We like GQ, but are a little skeptical of the utlity of such a lengthy list. The beers are presented with little context , and fifty beers seems too many to wrap one’s head around. That said, there are many worthy selections, including a couple of local favorites: Sixpoint Sweet Action–inarguably, the best beer to sip while playing bocce on a Saturday afternoon–and Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout.
Lets all take a moment to pray for our brothers and sisters at the Carlsberg brewery in Denmark. In what can only be described as a gross miscarriage of justice, the brewer has enacted new rules that limit on-the-job drinking of free Carlsberg beer. No longer will Carlsberg drivers enjoy their “very old right” to have up to three beers a day outside of lunch.
We sympathize. Our bosses at the home for orphan children with fragile bones (where we work when not beer blogging) recently limited our beer intake to a half-case a day after a game of “juggle the newborn” got out of hand. There’s no justice.
As I rode to work this morning through a cloud of dogwood blossoms on Brooklyn’s 5th Avenue, my thoughts turned to A-HOLE THIS IS A BIKE LANE. Sorry, my thoughts turned to spring, and the arrival of HEY JERK I’M TRYING TO RIDE HERE. Ahem. To the arrival of seasonal ales. I did a little research, and lo, a food writer at the Washington Post beat me to the punch, focusing on cherry-flavored offerings brewed locally in the District of Columbia, as well as a few bottled beers. It was the latter that caught my attention, particularly the Sam Adams American Kriek, available in 750-milliliter bottles.
The kriek is flavored with sour Balaton cherries, aged in oak barrels and blended with what Koch calls “Cosmic Mother Funk”: ale spontaneously fermented with whatever organisms grow in the rafters of his Boston brewery, which dates back some 150 years. “We’ve gotten organisms from when Lincoln was president,” Koch says with a chuckle.
This is further evidence that brewing is infinitely more interesting than making wine. Can you imagine a a major California vineyard fermenting a few buckets of old grapes that someone left behind the warehouse and hoping for the best?
On Thursday, the BNY editorial team headed to the Cherry Tree, on 4th Avenue and Bergen in Brooklyn, to watch the marquee match-up of the night: high-flying Kentucky versus high-I.Q. Cornell. This was my first trip to the Tree (we chose it over a more familiar haunt, Pacific Standard, across the street, because it was less crowded and was playing the audio for the game). The bonus was the unexpectedly huge beer selection. I counted 21 beers on tap, including delicious Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA, which I’d only had previously in a bottle. Other beer notes:
-I’m a huge Captain Lawrence fan, but I find their most ubiquitous product, Liquid Gold, simply undrinkable. It tastes to me like a cross between a Blue Moon and a Miller High Lift that has been filtered through the anus of a skunk. I thought I ‘d give it another shot last night–big mistake. It took a Sixpoint Sweet Action to restore my equilibrium.
-Twenty-one beers, but no Brooklyn Brewery products. Ross and I were comparing notes and realized we almost never see beers from the borough’s biggest brewer in Brooklyn bars. (Say that 20 times). Brooklyn Lager on tap is better than most earthly pleasures, but exceedingly rare. We speculated that Brooklyn focuses most of its attention on its more lucrative bottling business. Thoughts?
-Twenty-one beers, small bar. I worry about old beer in these situations. Really. It keeps me awake at night.
On to the game, and the subject of today’s post. It was amazing. Not Kentucky vs. Cornell, which was a stinker dominated by the ridiculously talented Cats, but the hype-free second game, between Kansas St. and Xavier. It was a double-overtime, shots falling from everwhere, instant classic. Even more than the game, though, watching solidified my feeling that Gus Johnson is the best (or, at least, most emotive) announcer in any sport. Gus calls a game like he’s broadcasting from a crowded sports bar. When the action heats up, he doesn’t even bother with analysis–he just lets it out, bellowing, whooping, making weird elephant sex noises. So watch this clip twice–once for the amazing game, once for the amazing Gus. (Check out the 1:50 mark: HE’S IN SHAPE).
When I was 17, I was drinking $3 wine out of plastic cups behind the stands at high school football games. When Ken Grossman was 17, he was already brewing his own beer. Guess which one of us became the most influential American brewer of his generation?
This is just one of the nuggets gleaned from an interview with Grossman by Dogfish Head’s Sam Calagione from the March/April issue of The New Brewer. (As we told you a few weeks ago, Grossman’s brewery, Sierra Nevada, is celebrating it’s 30th anniversary this year). A few years later, Grossman was scrounging equipment to build his own brewing operation. Here, Grossman talks about how the search, and about how he put his junior college education to good use, convincing his teachers to help him fabricate his equipment.
I did pretty much all the equipment. I would track down equipment on solo road trips, visiting communities up and down California and into Oregon. I would find a small dairy community and go to the surrey store, which was the supply company for milking equipment and tanks, and say, “Do you know of any dairies that have gone out of business?” I spent many, many days scouring for pumps and tanks and I’d find some defunct dairy barn full of old milking machines and stainless pipe pumps and I’d go in there with a hacksaw and wrenches and unbolt everything and figure out how to get the tank and equipment loaded in my truck. Besides the dairy pilgrimages, a guy named George Pizone ran this multi-acre scrap yard down in Keys, Calif. that focused on food processing equipment. He was near the Gallo winery and some other big food plants, so he had lots of stainless steel valves and fittings and tri-clamps and plug valves and conveyor chain and all sorts of stuff. I would go down there on a regular basis and that’s where I got my mash tun and kettle. The kettle was a steam-jacketed vessel probably built in the late 40s or early 50s and the steam jacket had rusted out but was cork insulated. I took it out to the junior college and began working on it. Since I was planning on opening the brewery, I realized I needed all these other skills that I didn’t have plus I didn’t have stainless steel welding equipment, fork lifts or drill presses. I had a great group of teachers at the junior college who didn’t mind that I would go out there and fabricate my brewing equipment.
Talk about making the most of your education. Look for anniversary editions of Sierra Nevada brews in stores in the next few weeks.
We have two continuing gripes about the New York bar and beer scene. One, tracking down a rooftop bar that is open, and doesn’t charge $7 for a Coors Light, is harder than finding a public pay toilet. Second, despite the brewing renaissance, there aren’t any many real brew pubs in the city. (Brooklyn Brewery has wonky hours, Chelsea Brewing Company is practically in the Hudson River, and Heartland Brewery serves very average beer).
Restaurant god Mario Batali heard our prayer. Coming soon to 200 Fifth Avenue: an 8,000 square foot rooftop brewery with beers crafted by Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head, Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River, and two Italian brewers, Ted Musso of Birrificio Le Baladin and Leonardo Di Vincenzo of Birra del Borgo. We were initially somewhat underwhelmed to learn that the beers will have an Italian character–dio ti benedice, Italy, you do so many things well, but beer isn’t one of them–but we have faith that brew masters Calagione and Cilurzo will make the brewpub worth a visit.
And about that: the rooftop bar will house a copper-clad brewing system. The idea, the brewers say, is to create an artisanal, old world Italian craft brewery that will feature Italian and American ingredients. The beers will be unpasteurized, unfiltered, naturally carbonated, and hand-pulled through traditional beer engines. The four individual brewers will also occasionally brew beers under their own names on site. Batali will preside over the food side of the operations.
No word on when the brewpub is set to open, but it will sit atop Italian food emporium Eataly, which is set to open this summer. Fantastico.
It was bound to happen. I’ve hit the age where now, more often than I like, I find myself telling newcomers about the way it used to be in New York City. For the most part, that change has been for the better. The city is safer than since Eisenhower was president. We have a progressive mayor who banned smoking in bars and approved hundreds of miles of new bike lanes. The city is awash in craft and locally brewed beer. We’re finally even getting a handle on the CHUD problem. But there is at least one change I lament. It’s hard to find a good Irish bartender these days.
In the late 1990s, when I first moved to New York, it was almost a given that the guy behind the bar would have an Irish brogue and would know how to properly pour a Guinness. (It was also a given that after the third round, any bartender worth his salt would give you a buy back, a round of drinks–maybe even two–on the house. I can’t remember the last time that happened). After the terrorist attacks of September 11th, New York’s Irish contingent seemed to disappear overnight, owing, I’m guessing, to heightened security concerns (many that I spoke with were undocumented) and to new jobs in a surging Irish economy. New York still has hundreds of bars with Irish names and shamrocks in the window, of course, and many still employ an Irish bartender or two. But finding one that doesn’t feel more like an Irish drinking theme park than an authentic Irish pub is a bit of a chore.
In honor of St. Paddy’s Day, here are five watering holes that offer an authentic Irish pub experience without trying too hard.
McSorley’s Old Ale House
This one is easy. Established in 1854, McSorley’s boasts of being New York’s oldest continuously operated saloon and has hosted dozens of politicians and celebrities, from JFK and Lincoln (supposedly), to Jack Kerouac and Frank Sinatra. There’s no cash register. Women were banned until 1970, and only then were allowed in under court order. You have two options for beer: light or dark. The bartenders are professionals. So are the drinkers. 15 E. 7th Street, Manhattan.
Swift Hibernian Lounge
Named for the great Irish satirist, Swift bar is centrally located, offers full 20 oz. pints for $6, and has a beer menu that goes well beyond the standards. Maybe not a destination bar, but perfect for a happy hour. 34 E. 4th Street.
Rocky Sullivan’s
Rocky’s was an office happy hour favorite back in its original location, on Lexington Ave, near Turtle Bay. Framed photos of Shane MacGowan and JFK, an excellent jukebox, and a cave-like atmosphere that invited you to hunker down and just drink, by God. The new location in Red Hook is bigger and brighter, and they’ve added a kitchen. I miss the old place, but can’t say I’m sorry that they left the stale beer funk behind. 34 Van Dyke Street, Brooklyn.
Paddy McGuire’s Ale House
You’ll have no trouble spotting an Irishman at this Grammercy standard. It’s all green–owners, bartenders, and last time I was there, a healthy contingent of customers. Plus a great place to watch sports on TV or for a pick-up game of pool. 237 3rd Ave. Manhattan.
Donovan’s
For my money, if you want an authentic New York-Irish pub experience, you have to trek out to my old stomping grounds in Sunnyside, Queens. Get off the 7 train at the 33rd street stop and walk east along Queens Boulevard and you’ll have no trouble finding an Irish breakfast or a cold pint at any one of a dozen or more places. My pick, though, takes you a little further out, to Donovan’s Irish Pub under the tracks on Roosevelt. As New York Magazine describes it, Donovan’s is “proudly untrendy.” Full pints, authentic brogues, and arguably the best bar burger in the city. 57-24 Roosevelt Ave., Queens
The Philadelphia Daily News is reporting that state police, acting, we assume, at the orders of their teetotaling alien overlords, recently conducted simultaneous raids on three popular Philadelphia bars known for their wide beer selections, confiscating hundreds of bottles of expensive ales and lagers, now in State Police custody at an “undisclosed” location.
Based on a complaint from someone the State Police refuse to identify, three teams of officers converged last Thursday on the three bars, run by Leigh Maida and her husband, Brendan Hartranft. Checking their inventories against the state’s official list of more than 2,800 brands, the cops seized four kegs and 317 bottles, totaling 60.9 gallons of beer, according to police calculations.
Police claimed that no one had registered the names of the seized beers with the state Liquor Control Board, a process which requires a $75 registration fee. However, according to one bar owner, more than half of the seized beer was properly registered, but the cops couldn’t find the registrations in their database. Among the seized beer: Belgian Duvel, which is sold in more than 200 restaurants and bars in the state.